Anogia - Rethymnon, Crete

Anogia (also spelt Anoghia or Anoyia) is a mountain village in Rethymnon prefecture, central Crete, at about 750 metres on the northern slopes of Mount Psiloritis (Mount Ida). Anogia lies close to the border with Heraklion prefecture, and Psiloritis, the highest mountain in Crete, rises above the village.

The History of Anogia

Anogia has a turbulent and tragic history, because the village took part in every Cretan struggle for freedom. Its people rose up against the Ottoman occupation of the island and later against the German occupation in the Second World War.

The village was a major centre of the resistance. In 1944, resistance fighters held the kidnapped German General Kreipe near Anogia before smuggling him off the island to Egypt. In reprisal, the Germans ordered the total destruction of the village. German forces shot the men they found in and around Anogia and razed the buildings to the ground, except for the church. The widows of the murdered men later built up the weaving trade to support their families.

The villagers rebuilt Anogia, and today it stands as a memorial to the men and women who fought the occupiers. A line often attributed to Winston Churchill sums up how the world saw the islanders' courage in the Battle of Crete: "...the world will no longer say that Greeks fight as heroes, but heroes fight as Greeks".

Folk Art, Weaving and Music in Anogia

Anogia is one of the main centres of Cretan folk art and weaving on the island. Shops in the village sell hand-woven textiles and embroidery, and our guide to Cretan folk art explains the crafts. The Grylios Museum, about 100 metres from the square, shows the work of the folk artist Alkiviadis Skoulas "Grylios"; its hours are irregular, so ask in the square to have it opened. The Anogeia Weaving House is a newer centre devoted to the local weaving tradition.

Anogia has a strong musical tradition. It is the birthplace of the musicians Nikos Xylouris, Psarantonis and Vasilis Skoulas. Traditional Cretan music fills the village at summer festivals, such as the Anogia Lyra Festival in July, and on religious feast days.

Walking and Sights Around Anogia

The country around Anogia is good for walking, hiking and cycling, and the E4 long-distance path passes through the village. Our guide to the E4 hiking trail across Crete covers the route.

The Nida Plateau, high on Psiloritis above Anogia, is one of the largest and most remote plateaux on the island. It is at its most colourful in spring, when wild flowers cover it.

The Idaean Cave (Ideon Andron) lies above the Nida Plateau, about 24 km from Anogia. Greek myth says Zeus was raised in this cave. It was an important place of worship in the Minoan and Roman periods, and excavations inside it found pottery, gold jewellery, metal objects and the famous bronze shields.

The Minoan sites of Tylissos and Sklavokambos are also within easy reach of Anogia. Finds from all these sites are on display in the Heraklion Archaeological Museum.

Eating and Staying in Anogia

Anogia is a good place to try traditional Cretan food in a real village setting. The village is known for dishes of the traditional Cretan diet such as lamb and local cheeses. The square of Agios Georgios has several tavernas and kafenia serving good food and strong drink, with genuine Cretan hospitality. Ask for "dopio fagito", meaning local food, and try the locally made raki (tsikoudia). Yammas!

The village has a small number of rooms to rent, including the small Hotel Aristea, a family-run bed and breakfast.

Getting to Anogia

Anogia is reached by road from Heraklion or Rethymnon, and buses run to the village from both towns. Check current times on the KTEL Heraklion–Lasithi timetables or with KTEL Chania–Rethymno before you travel.