Driving in Crete Guide
Your Driving in Crete Guide: Tips and Local Knowledge
Driving in Crete puts many visitors off, but it is the easiest way to see the whole island. This guide covers the roads, the signs, the local habits and what you need to drive legally.
Driving in Greece can feel unnerving, even for drivers used to the right-hand side of the road. That is a shame, because only a car gives you the freedom to explore all of Crete.
Crete’s roads are quiet on the whole, except in the centres of the large towns. Away from the towns there is little congestion, so journey times are easy to predict.
The bus service in Crete is good on the main routes, but buses limit how far you can explore. Services are less frequent in remote areas and out of season, so a car gives far more freedom.
Roads in Crete can sometimes be a problem if there are road works, but the low volume of traffic generally means that queues are the exception rather than the rule. There is a suspicion that Crete shares the one traffic cone (only joking).
Greek drivers have a bad reputation, and the accident and road death statistics for Greece as a whole seem to back it up.
Greece’s poor road safety record has several causes, and I think these 3 are the main ones.
- The Greek character
- Poor or inadequate road signs and markings
- Quality of roads
What You Need to Know About The Greek Driver
The Greek driver is easier to share the road with once you understand the Greek personality behind the wheel.
An important factor in the Greek personality is their it-will-never-happen-to-me mentality, probably due to the fact they put a great deal of their faith and safety in the hands of God. Don't be surprised if you see a family of four on a scooter, complete with a dog in the front basket! In place of fluffy dice, most cars will have worry beads dangling from the rear-view mirror, and many cars (including taxis) will be adorned with pictures of saints and other icons.
So, with this fail-safe back-up, why bother with a seat belt? You'll also often see children frolicking in the car without being strapped down too. Surviving hurtling around a sharp bend at high speed is placed in the hands of the Almighty!
Unfortunately, we can't all rely on such Divine attention, so take extra care when driving in Crete and always expect other drivers to behave badly.
Use of the horn is commonplace on the roads in Crete, but don't take it personally. Driving in Crete and Greece in general, the horn is used as it should be – as a warning signal of their approach. In the UK, the horn is almost exclusively used as an indicator of annoyance or an expression of anger or aggression. Not so much on the roads in Crete. This lays bare the great urban myth of the Greek driver – rude, impatient, and aggressive.
It is true that the shortest measurement of time in Greece is the period between the traffic lights turning green and when the first car is expected to move off. Failure to move away quickly often results in a blast of horns. But don't jump to the wrong conclusion about this either. This is another big myth perpetuated by many ex-pats and foreigners driving in Greece and Crete.
Although this might happen (I know it happens in the UK too), a close look at the Cretan road junction will explain another reason for this apparent "impatience." Unlike in the UK and most other north European and American cities, the traffic lights at junctions on the roads in Crete are set close to the waiting car or high above on a gantry. Usually, there are no traffic lights on the opposite side of the road on the roads in Crete. Quite often, therefore, the first car can find it hard to see the light change because they are too close or slightly behind.
Hence, the habit of drivers in the queue telling the first car that the lights have changed to green with a toot on the horn. Although friendly and welcoming, Greeks are generally a volatile and excitable race. They are quick to raise their voice and seemingly unafraid to express their emotions, and this reflects in their driving. Couple this with roads that are often of a poorer quality than most serving the same volume of traffic, and you produce accidents – and one of the worst traffic accident records in Europe, in fact.
What You Need to Know About the Roads in Crete
There is really only one main highway in Crete, and this is the E45, which runs along its width from Kastelli Kissamos in the west to Sitia in the east. Commonly known as the New National Road, it is not a true motorway that you might be used to in the UK, Europe, or North America, for example.
In places, it has multiple lanes, hard shoulders, and a central barrier, but not along its entire length. Often it will appear like a regular road with one lane, no central barrier, and regular junctions and crossroads. When driving in Crete, you can also shop along the National Road, particularly between Heraklion and Rethymnon. It hosts many fruit and vegetable stalls along the route, where you can stop and stock up with cheap, locally grown produce.
The speed limit on the National Road changes along its length. It drops further in the built-up areas the road passes through and near junctions, so watch the signs.
Generally, this is a good road and is rarely busy. We've mainly seen congestion on the approach to Heraklion from the east and around roadworks. Many other roads in Crete are good too, such as the main roads that branch off to the towns and villages on the southern coast. The Old National Highway runs parallel with the E45 and is a good road that follows the coast and, in places, is very picturesque.
Driving in Crete in towns can be different. In towns and villages, roads will often have no pavements, so expect pedestrians to vie for space. Many roads in Crete are narrow country and mountain roads with blind bends and steep inclines. Sealed roads will turn to dirt tracks, often only suitable for 4-wheel drive vehicles. So if you intend on driving in Crete in a hire car, ensure you have the right type for the terrain you want to explore.
Your Driving in Crete Guide to Road Signs and Markings
Road signs and markings in Crete are generally poor and sometimes downright confusing, so keep your wits about you. Some signs are completely hidden by vegetation, advertising stickers, graffiti – and gunshot holes!
Cretans are generally good at ignoring road signs and speed restrictions. The double solid white line in the centre of the road prohibiting overtaking is frequently ignored, so don't rely on it as an indication that nothing will be heading at you on your side of the road when approaching hills and bends.
When driving in Crete, you might be a little perplexed by some road signs pitted with dents and holes. This is evidence of a Cretan using the sign as target practice with their gun. I am sure it's not a reflection of their contempt for the rules of the road, but rather a need to express their hunting instincts in the absence of much legal game available on the island!
Nearly all direction signs in Crete are bilingual, showing place names in Greek and English. The two often look nothing alike, but the English version is almost always a phonetic spelling of the Greek. Chania (Χανιά), one of the harder ones, is pronounced Han-YA!
Our Driving in Crete Guide to Speed Limits
Speed limits in Crete are shown on road signs, and the posted sign is the limit that applies. Look carefully, because signs are often hidden by vegetation – and not seeing one is no defence.
Greece brought in a new Highway Code (Law 5209/2025) in autumn 2025. It raised fines and changed some rules on speed, so older lists of limits may be out of date. GOV.UK’s Greece travel advice on safety and security warns that local drivers often exceed speed limits, even in built-up areas.
Rural hazards in Crete often mean driving well below the speed limit. Shepherds use the road to move their flocks of sheep and goats, and you will meet slow, odd-looking tractors, carts and the occasional donkey.
Our Driving in Crete Guide to Courtesy and Driving Conventions
Despite popular belief, and what you might hear from many foreigners living in Greece, Cretans are courteous drivers. What looks like bad manners is often a cultural misunderstanding.
For example, in the UK, it is a rule that pedestrians have priority when crossing at a designated zebra or pelican crossing. This is not the case in Crete. So, don't expect drivers to stop if you are waiting to cross at what looks like a zebra crossing. They aren't being rude, just following the conventions they and other drivers are used to.
When driving in Crete, another convention at traffic signals is important to be aware of. You will sometimes see flashing amber lights, particularly flashing amber arrows. If you are turning in the direction of the arrows, you must expect pedestrians to be crossing (because they will have a green light to cross) and give way to any already crossing the road. In short, flashing amber means: yes, you can go, but you don't have priority or right of way.
An important driving convention in Crete really demonstrates the inherent courtesy of the Cretan driver. On the New National Road, the single-lane sections are a bit too narrow along the majority of their length to enable overtaking without crossing over to the opposite side of the road. It is the habit of almost all drivers to move over onto the "hard shoulder" to facilitate passing in these circumstances. This is perfectly acceptable, and you will often see slow-moving vehicles using the hard shoulder as a matter of course.
Because of the nature of many roads in Crete, it won't always be possible for vehicles meeting each other from opposite directions to pass safely. This means that one will have to stop and let the other through. The convention here is the same as the UK: the vehicle on whose side the obstruction is (if there is one) gives way. If you do give way, don't be surprised or upset if you don't get a thank you or a smile. Greeks don't do that, just as they won't expect or need a thank you from you if they let you pass. Don't interpret this as rudeness; it's just why should I expend the energy thanking you for something you should do in the first place!
You can generally put this economy of action and attitude down to the heat! But be aware that a raised open palm, often used in the UK as a 'thank you' to drivers, is a rude gesture in Greece. It is equivalent to sticking up two fingers in the UK!
Are Cretans rude? No!
Our Driving in Crete Guide to Roadside Shrines
Roadside shrines are a common sight in Crete, as in the rest of Greece. They range from small glass cabinets on metal legs to elaborate brick-built altars.
Mostly these shrines are erected by family members to honour and remember loved ones who have died in traffic accidents, but also the Cretans erect shrines to saints too.
Inside you will often see candles, pictures of saints, icons and often some personal items belonging to the person to whom the shrine is dedicated. Many shrines also hold small oil lamps, which are kept lit as a sign of eternal remembrance and spiritual guidance for the soul of the departed.
These shrines are not only memorials but also act as spiritual markers, reminding drivers of the fragility of life and encouraging safe driving practices. Some are erected to commemorate a miraculous escape from a near-fatal accident, as a way of expressing gratitude to a saint or higher power believed to have intervened. Whether simple or elaborate, these roadside shrines are a poignant part of Cretan culture, blending religious devotion with personal grief and gratitude.
Traffic Police!
Traffic police on the New National Road and other main roads sometimes flag motorists down. These are usually drivers caught speeding by radar.
The equipment at their disposal is quite sophisticated and often discharged from a concealed police car further up the highway.
Fines are no longer small. Greece’s 2025 Highway Code raised penalties sharply, with licence suspensions for serious speeding, using a phone at the wheel and not wearing a seat belt or helmet. The new code also allows traffic cameras to issue fines electronically.
It's true to say that you don't often see the police in Crete. Certainly they are not as evident as they are in the UK. This has a lot to do with the fact that there is such a low crime rate in Crete.
There is a consequence. Many Cretans will try to get away with some things on the road, so be prepared for drivers going through red lights (especially when the road is quiet). Also, the wearing of safety helmets appears optional - it's not, but sometimes the police don't seem to bother!
Drink-driving is a serious offence in Greece. GOV.UK’s Greece travel advice warns that a driver found with more than two-thirds of England’s legal alcohol limit can be fined and possibly imprisoned. Even so, I've often seen men leaving a kafeneion having drunk a couple of carafes of raki and then promptly getting into their cars (or tractors) and driving home.
On the other hand, at one kafeneion near where we lived in Istron, an old man would regularly drink several glasses of raki, but would always get a lift at the end of the night - from his 13 year old grandson!
Drink-driving brings severe penalties if you are caught, and a high chance of an accident if you are not.
Staying Safe on Greek Roads
One simple rule prevents many accidents in Crete: never drive so fast that you cannot stop safely within the distance you can see to be clear. Greece has one of the worst road accident records in Europe, so defensive driving matters here.
Overtaking where it is prohibited or plainly unsafe is the most dangerous habit on Greek roads. Drivers often cross double white lines and ignore no-overtaking signs. Expect an oncoming car on your side of the road near hills and bends.
Watch out for these hazards on Cretan roads:
- Missing or confusing road markings.
- Poor lighting in some dangerous places.
- Fast dual carriageway sections without a central crash barrier.
- Whole families riding one motorcycle without helmets.
- Small children sitting unrestrained on a passenger's lap.
Every driver is responsible for the safety of their passengers and other road users. Wear your seat belt, use child seats and wear a helmet on any bike, whatever local drivers do.
Parking Up
Parking in Crete is normally easy until you get into the Big Four Towns (Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos), the smaller towns, and bigger "villages".
Try to park just outside the centre, especially of Chania and Heraklion. We have parked with no problem on the Marina car park in Agios Nikolaos (except when getting there late in the day in high season). Also, we usually park on the sea front at Rethymno (just follow the signs), or the huge car park area at the marina - although we have not tried this in July and August!
We don't mind walking, but some people are less mobile, and so there's usually no alternative but to seek out parking in the centre of town. There's plenty of options, but it will cost of course, and car parks do get full in the High Season, so get there early.
If you have a Blue Badge (UK drivers/passengers), or other document showing entitlement to disability parking, then take it with you on holiday as there are some limited opportunities for disability parking in town centres.
Many Greek drivers try to park right outside where they want to go, which leads to a lot of double (and triple!) parking. The police or traffic warden will come along and blow a whistle, giving the owner a chance to move it.
If no one shows, they'll write a ticket.
Filling Up
Filling up with fuel is easy in Crete, because you don't have to get out of your car.
At most petrol stations an attendant fills up for you, unless a sign says Self-Service. Just say how much you want in Euros, or say "Full!"
You don't have to tip (but you can of course!)- he or she will be happy for your custom.
Driving in Crete - What You Need
To drive in Crete you need a valid driving licence. A licence issued in an EU country is valid in Greece. Drivers with licences from other countries should check whether they also need an International Driving Permit (IDP).
UK drivers with a photocard licence do not need an IDP to drive in Greece. GOV.UK’s guide to International Driving Permits lists Greece as a country where no IDP is needed, and its Greece travel advice confirms that a UK photocard licence is valid there. Holders of an old paper licence may need to update it to a photocard or carry the 1968 IDP as well. Car hire companies can set stricter rules, such as a year of driving experience, a higher minimum age or an IDP, so check with the hire company before you travel.
Car hire is easy to find in Crete. The big international companies are represented, and there are many smaller Cretan firms all over the island with a wide choice of models.
Book your hire car in advance. In July and August, when demand is at its peak, booking ahead is essential.
Choose your rental car based on what you want to do. If you are planning a trip to the mountains or over rough terrain, you'll need a big powerful car to get up the slopes, or even a four wheel drive if the roads are very poor.
Road rules in Greece changed in 2025, so check them before each trip. GOV.UK’s Greece travel advice on road travel summarises the current rules for British drivers.
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