White Mountains of Crete
A Year in the Life of the White Mountains of Crete
The White Mountains of Crete (Lefka Ori) are snow-capped from about mid-December until April, and sometimes into May. Every morning when we open our bedroom shutters, we look out at them rising behind Chania. In winter they remind us of the Swiss Alps and look chocolate-box perfect.
Many summer visitors are surprised that Crete has snow-topped mountains at all. Mountain ranges run the length of the island, from Sitia in the east to Kissamos in the west, and the high peaks of all of them carry snow in winter.
The first snow usually comes in December. One mid-December morning the weather had turned chilly, and we woke to find the Lefka Ori sprinkled with a smattering of snow.
As the snow melts into streams in late spring, the slopes turn green and fill with wild flowers. Summer walks bring the scent of wild herbs and the hum of bees. In autumn, the low sun gives the bare rock a warm amber colour.
The Geography of the White Mountains of Crete
The White Mountains (Lefka Ori) are the largest mountain range in western Crete, and their highest peak, Pachnes, rises to 2,453 metres. The range takes its name from its pale limestone, which looks white even in summer, as well as from the winter snow.
About 50 gorges cut through the White Mountains. The Samaria Gorge is the most famous of them, and our account of hiking the Samaria Gorge describes the walk. High plateaux lie among the peaks, and the Omalos Plateau, at the top of the Samaria Gorge, is the most famous of them.
The White Mountains are one of 3 great mountain groups on Crete, with Mount Ida (Psiloritis) in the centre of the island and the Dikti (Lasithi) Mountains in the east. Our guide to the mountains and gorges of Crete compares all 3 ranges.
The Changing Seasons of the White Mountains of Crete
The White Mountains of Crete look different in every season. These 4 seasons shape when and how to visit them:
- Winter: snow covers the peaks and often stays well into spring, in sharp contrast to the sunny coast below.
- Spring: wild flowers cover the hillsides, and gorges such as Samaria and Aradena run with snow melt. Spring is a good time for walking before the summer heat.
- Summer: the snow has gone, revealing the pale limestone. The trails are dry, and the high air is cooler than the coast.
- Autumn: cooler days make for comfortable walks before winter returns.
Exploring the Peaks and Villages of Lefka Ori
The Lefka Ori combine high, rugged peaks with small stone villages on their lower slopes. From the high summits on a clear day, the view stretches south to the Libyan Sea. Walks range from the demanding Samaria Gorge to gentler paths between villages.
Anopolis, on a plateau above the south coast, is a village of traditional stone houses and small chapels. Nearby Aradena is now almost abandoned, and its gorge is one of the most dramatic in the range. The mountain villages are known for local cheeses and for raki offered to visitors.
Take a good map, or go with a local guide, before setting out on the higher trails.
Why the White Mountains Hold a Special Place in Cretan Life
The White Mountains are a symbol of freedom for Cretans, because their rugged terrain sheltered islanders during invasions and uprisings. From the Ottoman era to the Second World War, fighters and refugees hid in the mountains.
A Lifeline for Villages
The mountains feed the villages around them. Shepherds graze sheep and goats on the high plateaux, and their milk becomes local cheeses such as graviera and mizithra. Mountain springs supply fresh water, and wild herbs gathered on the slopes, such as thyme and sage, flavour Cretan dishes.
Rooted in Tradition
Many remote chapels and caves in the Lefka Ori are sacred places. Some host yearly festivals and pilgrimages on their saints' days, and the mountains feature in local stories and songs.
The Greek National Tourism Organisation's official site, Visit Greece, has more on the area and on walking in Crete.
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