Kalyves Beach Village Guide

Kalyves at a Glance

Kalyves shares its setting with the neighbouring fishing village of Almyrida: the White Mountains (Lefka Ori) behind and the open water of Souda Bay in front.

Kalyves has long stretches of soft golden sand for anyone who wants to stretch out on the beach. The surrounding hills suit walkers, cyclists, birdwatchers, photographers and painters too.

The village has a couple of pharmacies, banks, butchers, bakers, greengrocers and other shops so everything you need is at hand.

Hotels in Kalyves

Kalyves has 2 large beach hotels, the Kalyves Beach Hotel and the nearby Kiani Beach Resort, plus a few budget hotels and plenty of apartments, studios and rooms. Private villas are available in the village and in the surrounding villages of Megala Chorafia, Almyrida, Plaka, Kokkino Horio, Kambia and Vamos.

Kalyves Beach Hotel

Kalyves Beach Hotel sits on the beach in the centre of the village, beside the small river that divides the sand. The hotel now sells all-inclusive packages as well as half board. We stayed there a couple of times before it offered all-inclusive, and family members have also holidayed there.

Kiani Beach Resort

Kiani Beach Resort is the sister hotel of Kalyves Beach Hotel. It stands on Kiani Akti beach, about 2.5 km outside the village towards Kalami. We have eaten there a few times and found it good value for money.

Sunrise Suites

Sunrise Suites is one of the larger hotels in Kalyves, about 500 m uphill from the beach, with an outdoor pool. Most other accommodation in the village is in small apartment blocks.

Restaurants in Kalyves

Kalyves has beachside tavernas along the sand and more restaurants dotted through the village. We’ve eaten in them many, many times, because we lived in Kalyves for some time. Many of them serve good food at fair prices, with genuine Cretan hospitality.

The beachside tavernas look over the sand and the clear water of the bay. They serve fresh fish, healthy salads and slow-cooked lamb, beef or rabbit with plenty of potatoes, washed down with chilled white wine.

Eleni's is our favourite of the beach side tavernas in Kalyves. Try the prawn saganaki or the fish platter.

Crete Attractions Nearby

Kalyves is a good base for day trips to 6 places nearby: Chania town, the Botanical Park, Souda Bay War Cemetery, Limnoupolis water park, Ancient Aptera and the Samaria Gorge.

Chania town is a short trip by KTEL bus or car from Kalyves. The town has a Venetian harbour and good shopping in the old town, and our Chania town guide covers it in detail.

The Botanical Park and Gardens of Crete lie about half an hour's drive away, just past Fournes on the road up to Omalos. We love the park and go as often as we can. Its nature-trail paths climb through orchards and gardens, and the restaurant serves Cretan dishes plus a fruit salad made from fruit grown in the park. Our Botanical Park of Crete guide has more on the walk.

Souda Bay War Cemetery sits on the shore of the bay, with trees and shrubs on 3 sides and the open water in front. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission records 1,500 Commonwealth servicemen of the Second World War buried or commemorated there, 776 of them unidentified. Most of them died in the Battle of Crete, fought from 20 to 31 May 1941. Our Souda Bay War Cemetery page describes a visit.

The Samaria Gorge is the most demanding day out from Kalyves. Organised excursions to the gorge pick up from the village, and our account of hiking the Samaria Gorge describes the walk.

Limnoupolis Water Park is a family favourite, around half an hour's drive away. Our Limnoupolis water park guide covers the slides and pools.

Ancient Aptera is the nearest archaeological site, on a hill 230 metres above Souda Bay with views over the whole plain of Chania. Aptera sees far fewer visitors than Knossos or Malia, so you can explore the ruins in relative peace. The remains include a theatre and huge Roman cisterns, and our Ancient Aptera guide has opening times and fees.

Kalyves Beaches

Kalyves main beach is a long curve of golden sand, split in 2 by a small bridged river beside the Kalyves Beach Hotel. Shady trees and beach tavernas back the sand. The beach slopes gently into shallow clear water, which suits children. It is our favourite beach in Crete.

A long stretch of beach runs west towards Kalami. It is quieter than the main beach but has a few pebbles.

Kalyves beach rarely gets high winds because it lies in a sheltered bay.

Walking and Wildlife in Kalyves

Kalyves is a good base for walkers and birdwatchers, with a coastal path to Almyrida and birds nesting in the village itself.

The Coastal Walk from Kalyves to Almyrida

A walking path links Kalyves with the neighbouring bay of Almyrida. The walk is quite testing, with several steep up and down slopes, and it ends at the beach near the Almyrida Beach Hotel. Both bays have a sandy beach and a cliff face behind a small fishing harbour, and our Almyrida village guide covers the far end of the walk.

Swallows in Kalyves

Large colonies of barn swallows (Hirundo rustica) spend the summer in Kalyves. They nest under the eaves of the small shop fronts on the main street, so close that you can almost reach up and touch them. Each nest is a small half-cup of dried mud pellets packed into a corner, and by midsummer rows of young beaks peer out from the gap under the roof.

In the evenings the swallows glide down the main road and skim the river beside the Kalyves Beach Hotel, feeding on insects in the cooler air. By late August they gather in large flocks over the sea front and on the wires above the main street. These flocks make the journey of around 3,000 miles to Africa, and the survivors return to Kalyves to breed the following spring.

Kingfishers in Kalyves

Kingfishers return to the harbours of Kalyves and Almyrida once the swallows have left in autumn. They fly and fish amongst the moored boats. Look for a flash of metallic turquoise skimming just above the sea.

Getting to Kalyves

Kalyves is easiest to reach from Chania airport or Souda port, about 20 km away. Flights into Heraklion airport mean a much longer drive, around 120 km along the National Road. Ferries into Souda port, near Chania, are closer than ferries into Heraklion port.

Drivers leave the New National Road at the Kalyves/Armeni exit. KTEL buses run between Chania bus station and Kalyves.